When big waves crash on the shores of New Hampshire, there are not many surfers who can handle them.
As a region that generally has one or two foot swells, anything above five feet is quite rare. Thus few people can paddle out past the break and even fewer can paddle in, stand up and ride a wave of that size.
For the other 80% who got in the water, the process is the reward. Fighting the whitewater, paddling out as far as you can. Watching good surfers rip through big waves. Talking to friends on the people. Watching barrels crash. It’s all the reward.
You may never stand up on a wave and carve into it, but you got in the water and that’s what counts.